We often say that it takes time before truly trusting something new that enters the market. Sometimes, new trends experience a small initial boom and then disappear into oblivion without a trace, while others arrive more slowly, remain a topic of conversation, and, against all odds, consolidate. However, one thing I know for sure: when we at InLei set our minds to developing something, it will never be a passing fad. It becomes a project that grows, perfects itself, and, above all, endures.

The first time we heard about Korean lash lift, or as it's often called outside Europe, Korean lash lift, was in early 2023. Opinions were decidedly mixed: many argued that it was just another trend destined to quickly fade, and that several trainers were simply leveraging the moment to sell courses, without truly applying the technique in their daily salon routines.

Even we, after an initial search, had put the idea aside. It remained there until almost the end of the year, when (partly as a joke, partly as a bet) we began experimenting with the famous powder used in the Asian lash lift, with rather uncertain initial results.

Then, in March 2025, during a competition in Australia that we personally attended, everything changed. We discovered that, in that part of the world, the Korean lash lift is a technique widely used for years, with moments of enormous success alternating with quieter phases. It was then that we decided to seriously resume the project, this time with conviction and determination.

What does the Korean lash lift involve, or as it is often called outside Europe: Korean lash lift / Korean lashlifting.

The Korean lash lift differs significantly from the classic European protocol, both in terms of the products used and the final result. It is a technique born and developed primarily in Asian countries, where the almond-shaped eye requires a different and more pronounced opening than the Caucasian eye. But what are the fundamental characteristics of the Asian lash lift?

1. Use of powder. This is an ingredient that acts as a gelling agent and is mixed with the first and/or second perming solution. Not all powders are the same: some are very effective, others too mild; still others are so tenacious that they are difficult to remove or interfere with the uniformity of the curl during the treatment.

2. Use of cysteamine (or cysteamine - it is a substitute for the other more commonly used active ingredient: ammonium thioglycolate. Both act as a reducing agent in the hair shaping phase.) It is believed that the first solution used for perming in the lash lift process should contain cysteamine, considered more gentle in its interaction during the physical-chemical change that allows the lashes to be reshaped.

3. "L-shaped" curl or at least a very pronounced curl at the root of the lashes. In our opinion, this is the most characteristic aspect of the Korean lash lift. The effect creates an "L-shaped" curl at the root area or a decidedly more pronounced curl compared to the European standard.

Korean lash lift on a European eye structure

Below, we will show you both the effects we observed with the true Korean technique and the regrowth result after 1–2 months from the treatment.

Korean lash lift regrowth result

So, our European "classic" protocol differs in: 

• the solutions used. Additionally, classic liquid, water-soluble gel glue becomes unusable, as there is no longer a preliminary lash application on the silicone pad
• the finished effect, which changes drastically. It might be excellent for Asian eyes, but less uniform for our type.
  
• the speed of execution, which is claimed to be much faster.

Here you can see an Asian lash lift performed directly on an almond-shaped eye. In this case, the technique makes perfect sense: on an Asian eye, where the orbital hollow is not particularly pronounced, the effect greatly opens up the gaze, softens the epicanthus, and gives a broader and more harmonious appearance to the entire face. However, for the European/Caucasian eye, I would say it is necessary to rethink the approach. We can, in fact, intelligently rework the method, adapting it both to the safety requirements of the products, and to the most suitable final effect for our eyes, those we encounter daily in the salon.

The Korean lash lift protocol: how it differs from the classic technique

After observing the technique up close, studying various variations, and understanding the logic behind the Korean lash lift, we decided to reproduce each phase in our laboratories to truly understand how it works. It was important to analyze not only the final effect but, above all, the behavior of the hair during each step, because the Korean lash lift is based on a very different dynamic compared to the European one.

For this very reason, in our InLei® tests, we chose to use an experimental gelling powder, formulated by us. It was the only way to have full control over the reactions and to precisely evaluate every detail of the process. We would like to specify that when using products from other brands, it may be necessary to modify quantities, proportions, and timings, because the final result largely depends on the specific formulation.

But let's see now what emerged from our tests and how the Korean lash lift protocol develops, step by step.

Mixing and Initial Application of Korean Lash Lift

The first difference from the classic protocol (read this article for more details) concerns the use of the first product: in our case, InLei® Form 1 is mixed with 10–20% of powder.

The mixture is applied along the entire length of the lashes, maintaining approximately 1 mm distance from the roots, without using a silicone pad (IMG A). Alternatively, a so-called transitional silicone pad can be used (in the case of InLei, the Forma pad can be used), which is flat, and on which the lashes are stretched "backward" with the mixture, virtually towards the eyelid (IMG B).

This represents the first phase of the Korean lash lift, in which, one way or another, the main function is to soften the structure of the lash hair. In our tests, we used the InLei® reducing solution based on ammonium thioglycolate and, confirming the results, we found no alteration in the hair structure, even when applied along the entire length. For more fragile hairs, however, it may be useful to adopt the practice of removing the product from the tips after about 3 minutes from the beginning of exposure, using InLei® Saline Pretreatment. This product does not interrupt the chemical process but gently slows down its action, ensuring greater control over the final result.

Processing Time in Korean Lash Lift

During the Korean lash lift, exposure times are generally longer compared to the European lash lift (even when using a cysteamine-based active ingredient), because the hair is not held taut by glue, as is the case in the classic technique. A hair stretched on the silicone pad by the action of an adhesive such as InLei® Fixing Gel, which keeps it taut, absorbs the product differently than a completely relaxed hair: this is why adjusting the times is crucial.

Left: Lash Filler 25.9 technique - exposure time: 11 minutes. Right: Asian lash lift technique, same hair - exposure time: 14 minutes. In case of cysteamine product: 16 minutes

In other words, on the same type of hair, the reaction time can vary significantly, depending on whether it is under tension or relaxed.

Second step of Korean Lash Lift: the mixture with powder and application on the shield

Another substantial difference between the classic protocol and the Korean lash lift concerns the use of the second solution InLei® Lash Fix2. In this case, it is mixed with 20-30% of InLei® S-Powder and used to stretch the lashes on the chosen shield to achieve the desired curl.

Important details:

• Be careful not to create a mixture that is too thick, as it would compromise the final effect, but also not to use an insufficient amount of product.
  
• In this phase, the eyelashes are extremely fragile, so movements must be kept to a minimum. If using InLei® Helper (as in the photo), the movement must be single, firm, and delicate, never repetitive; alternatively, it is preferable to choose softer tools, such as InLei® Softies.
• Once the lashes are perfectly stretched and aligned, they should be secured at the base with InLei® Lash Stopper, to prevent small anagen hairs from moving and compromising the uniformity of the curl.

From this point on, you can proceed with the steps provided by the classic technique you usually use: if we are talking about Lash Filler 25.9, for example, we proceed with tinting, the nourishing step, washing, and finally the molecular reconstruction.

Variations and interpretations of the Korean technique

There are several variations in how the Korean technique is performed, because each professional tends to adapt it based on their habits and the desired outcome. For example, some decide to apply a film to accelerate the action of cysteamine — although, to be honest, this is a bit contradictory, considering that the delicacy of this ingredient is based precisely on its slow and controlled action. Others prefer to rely on cups or small accessory tools to further enhance the result, perhaps hoping to achieve an even more defined curl or a more pronounced eye opening.

These interpretations demonstrate how the Korean lash lift is a technique in continuous evolution, still in the exploration phase. It is interesting to see how everyone tries to personalize it, but at the same time, it is always good to remember that not all solutions work in harmony. Because if one deviates too much from the principles on which the technique is based, there is a risk of obtaining uneven effects or even results unsuitable for the natural hair structure.

A conscious look at the Korean technique

As always, the most important aspect is to understand the process well and know the synergies between the products, because not all solutions work in harmony with each other. Sometimes, instead of providing a benefit, they end up not performing their cosmetic function at all, as in the case of nourishment, and this can affect the balance of the final result. This is an aspect not to be underestimated when experimenting with a method that, however fascinating, is still in its definition phase.

In conclusion, we consider this technique interesting and with real potential, but it is clear that we still need many behind-the-scenes tests. As mentioned, it needs to be adapted to the characteristics of European eyelashes and our orbital cavity, so that it can become a safe, certified and compliant procedure with the European Cosmetic Regulation. Only then can we talk about a stable and truly industrialized evolution of the "Korean" lamination.

Personally, we have already started calling it InLei® Italian Style: a revised version that we are building step by step, with the enthusiasm of those who wish to bring truly valid, safe, and long-lasting techniques to the industry.

Tatiana, InLei® Staff and InLei® Family all over the world.