Lash Structure and Porosity. Best Practice for Lamimaker

How often do you have doubts when choosing the exposure times of the substances for the InLei® Lash Filler treatment? How many times do you have doubts that the exposure time is too long or not enough?

Today we are going to clarify a bit our ideas on this topic. To understand how the reactions occur
chemical properties of the permanent or dye, two main factors must be observed:

• hair structure
• hair porosity

HAIR POROSITY: WHAT IT IS AND HOW TO RECOGNIZE IT

First of all, the shiny/dull appearance of the coat depends on its porosity . Porosity is the ability of the coat to absorb moisture and can be low, medium or high.
To understand which category the hair you are treating belongs to, you have to observe the cuticle. It will not be easy if you do not have a microscope at hand, so you have to rely on the absorption capacity.

Here's what happens depending on the type of hair:

• Low porosity (= low absorption capacity) - the "scales" of the cuticle adhere very well and the hair is very shiny, like the hair in advertisements. It is very difficult for chemicals to penetrate inside these hairs, so exposure times increase for both perms and dyes.

• Medium porosity - most hair. When the cuticle scales are slightly raised and thin, or the cuticle layers are few due to ethnicity. These hairs are generally very obedient (easy to manage).

• High porosity (= high absorption capacity) - when the scales of the cuticle are raised (weak) or breathable. This does not allow the humidity to remain for long, so at every opportunity the hair tries to absorb as much as possible. This hair appears visibly fragile and dull (usually it is hair that has been badly treated and damaged) but remember that a good part of curly hair also has high porosity! During the absorption of the perm ( Lash Form 1 ) you will notice that this hair literally “eats” the solution (which from intense white becomes transparent milky white).

TO SUMMARIZE:
→ shiny hair = low porosity = leave on longer
→ dull hair = high porosity = leave the substances on for less time because they are
absorbed very quickly

STRUCTURE OF EYELASHES

Starting from porosity we can also analyze elasticity , because they depend on each other. The ability to maintain humidity, in fact, ensures that keratin remains elastic, especially at the hairline.

Here too we divide the cases into three categories:

• Soft hair - this type is often very obedient during the application on the curler, but sometimes it can become rebellious: in some cases the hair is so soft and obedient that it creates "waves" that are very difficult to straighten. In general, these hairs rarely escape from the curler when the first solution (permanent) is in place.

• Medium hair - this is obedient hair, it lies on the curler without problems and usually falls within medium porosity. Sometimes during the application time of the first solution some hair may escape. Be careful, in these cases they must be put back in place with the “spider web” method.

• Stiff and wiry hair - this type of hair shows a lot of resistance to "curling on the curler" and we have to use a lot of glue to keep it in check. We often call it "glassy" (as if it were made of glass) because sometimes it also has a low porosity and therefore is very shiny. If you don't put enough glue many will escape during the Form 1 processing time.

REMEMBER - This does not concern the diameter of the hair : very fine hair can be very stiff and coarse hair can be very soft.

EYELASH PERM FORM 1 APPLICATION TIMES InLei® LASH FORM 1

Here is a table with recommended exposure times, as you can see it was created
taking into account both factors we have seen: porosity and structure of the hair. Don't forget that there are always exceptions!

EXCEPTIONS TO THE RULE

Very fine and not very porous hair (Kazakhstan) structure
apparently soft, in reality it is medium-hard to the touch. Average time: can vary from 10 to 14 minutes. If you had stopped at the visual analysis alone you would have chosen 6 minutes!

Very fine and not very porous hair (Kazakhstan) structure
soft only in appearance : it often rebels a lot
while applying it on the curler.

The hair of many red girls has poor hair-raising ability.
absorption (in the photo an Italian model). Whether with a soft or rigid structure, the exposure time increases by one minute compared to the table.

Italian hair: the structure seems soft to the touch and appearance, in reality it is very rebellious during application. In the light of the lamp you can notice a "glass effect" , in fact its surface is quite shiny (well closed cuticles).
You would probably have chosen the times of a medium structure and porosity (9 min), in reality it is a medium-stiff / stiff hair with low porosity. Average time: 13 minutes.

Here is an example of "glassy" fur. The first photo was
taken 1 minute after being written and the second after 11
minutes. Pay attention to the absorption: here it is
imperceptible, the hair responds slowly .

IMPROVE YOUR TECHNIQUE AND BECOME A LASH FILLER PROFESSIONAL 25.9

Nowadays what really matters is being the “trusted operator” , the one who makes the difference! To achieve popularity in the eyelash sector, it is necessary to work with precision and a lot of competence: the client immediately sees the difference between a mediocre treatment and one performed to perfection, just as she notices the gap between those who know the sector in depth and those who know very little about it.

Not only that, technical and/or chemical deficiencies are a big risk! A treatment like an eyelash perm can carry several risks if performed incorrectly. An incorrect application time, for example, can burn the client's eyelashes, just as the incorrect use of some products could cause serious eye irritation.
Why risk it? If you want to become a successful lamimaker, we recommend you enroll in the Lash Filler 25.9 course held in our Light Lashes Academy throughout Italy!

Find out more on the website www.corsiextensionciglia.com